Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Revue Thommen. Since 1853

Contemporary witnesses of watchmaking skill.
Since 1853.

After over 150 years, it is still the watchmaker’s inventive talent that sets the balance wheel in motion. Every day countless contemporary witnesses of watchmaking skill see the light of day at
Revue Thommen. Revue Thommen’s founding fathers would be pleased. The watch manufacturer in the Swiss region of Jura near Basel is alive and ticking. Its watchmaking masters produce manufacture movements by hand, each one in itself a unique article.
Revue Thommen is one of the oldest Swiss watch brands, and has always been worthy of the latin-derived term “manufacture”. Over 100 different GT movements have been produced manufactum–by hand. The little town of Waldenburg founded the “Société d’Horlogerie à Waldenburg” in 1853 because of the high level of unemployment. Gédéon Thommen took over the factory in 1859. From that moment on the factory flourished and annual production increased from 4000 in 1870 to 13000 watches in 1890. Again and again Thommen was the talk of the town with its astounding inventions. The son Alphonse carried on his father’s tradition. He placed enormous value on excellent quality and unfailingly wanted to play a leading role in development.
Several American presidents relied on the “Cricket” alarm wristwatch. With the arrival of the “Revue Sport”, wristwatches satisfied the most rigorous requirements for the very first time. Without qualified watchmakers Revue Thommen wouldn’t be able to develop and produce mechanical watch movements. For this reason the training of apprentices is of utmost importance. In this way Revue Thommen conserves and fosters its know-how in the construction of its timepieces and a large element of its independence.

Revue Thommen watches were a natural product extension for the company that started as a premier supplier of airline dashboard gauges. Revue Thommen watches are authentic tool watches since they are designed for pilots. Revue Thommen's experience is obviously present in their watches -- in the legibility of the dials and especially in their anti-reflective crystals. Revue Thommen Airspeed watches look like they do not have a crystal. The good news is that the watches are still very reasonably priced. Revue Thommen also makes the Cricket alarm watch. The company gave this watch to American presidents for many years. I have owned a number of Revue Thommen watches, and I have found them to be of excellent quality and intereting designs. (C) www.watchfinder.com

The Valjoux 7750 - Chronograph of The World

ETA/Valjoux 7750 • Ø 30,00 mm • H 7,90 mm
  • Chronograph mechanism with cams
  • 2 push buttons
  • Self-winding mechanism with ball
  • bearing
  • Hours, minutes, small second
  • Stop second device
  • Regulator system ETACHRON and
  • regulator corrector
  • 28.800 vibrations per hour; 4 Hz.
  • Chronograph 60 seconds
  • 30 minutes and 12 hours counters
  • Date and day, corrector
  • 25 Jewels

Valjoux 7750 History
Valjoux's manual wind chronograph movements were justifiably famous, but the introduction of Zenith's 'El Primero' automatic chronograph and Heuer's Calibre 11 automatic chronograph in 1969 created a sensation at the Basel fair that year.  The small management team at Valjoux took due notice of this horological event and considered the possibility of designing an automatic chronograph.  It was during this time frame that a young Edmond Capt graduated from the watchmaking school in Le Sentier with a specialty as a calibriste (one who builds prototype calibres).  He then went on to study in Geneva and graduate in 1969 as a watchmaker engineer. He immediately went to work for Rolex, but stayed there only a year, no doubt feeling like a small fish in a big pond.  Capt wanted to put his skills and education to work, and accepted a position with Valjoux S.A. in Les Bioux in 1970. 

The technical director of Valjoux at the time discussed with Capt the desire of the company to produce an automatic chronograph.  It was a matter of corporate pride that Valjoux have an automatic chronometer calibre of its own.  The 17 jewel manual wind 7733 chronograph movement with subdials at 3 and 6 o'clock was a Valjoux standard of accuracy and ruggedness, and a preferred movement for Breitling, Tissot, Bulova, Fortis and other makes. Capt was directed to study the 7733 to see if it could be adapted to automatic winding.  Realistically speaking, this automatic chronometer would have to be a new design, but Capt studied the 7733 to see what parts and ebauche geometry could be used. 

The new calibre designation would be 7750. It was to measure 13.25 ligne, have a day and date indication with quick setting for both. It was to have three subdials; one would be a sweep second hand, the others would indicate 30 minutes elapsed time, 12 hours elapsed time with a large sweep second hand indicating seconds on the main dial.  It was a tall order for the young watchmaker and ebauche designer, but Capt had the resources of the house of Valjoux behind him. Capt had been one of Le Sentier's most distinguished and perceptive students and he was asked to teach at the watchmaking school. One is his students, Gerald Gander, showed particular promise and Capt asked him to participate in the design effort for the 7750 at Valjoux.  Later, Donald Rochat joined the group. Finally, another Valjoux watchmaker and a young and skilled draftswoman rounded out the team. 

For years, watch movements had been designed with traditional drafting methods.  Personal computers were still years away, but Valjoux did have a computer in Neuchatel in the office of the technical director. The drawings produced in Les Bioux were digitized in Neuchatel and the function of those parts checked on the computer. Capt had more to deal with than the design of the movement. He also had to work with the Valjoux manufacturing team to coordinate the tooling required to produce the parts once the designs were finalized, as well as work with outside suppliers.  The 7750 had to be designed not only for the desired functions, accuracy and durability, it also had to be designed for speed and ease of manufacture.  The design and development of the 7750 took two years. Strict methods of Valjoux development and testing were followed. The first complete 7750 movement to begin ticking at 28,800 beats per hour was an exciting moment for everyone at Valjoux.  

Once the dedicated 7750 assembly areas were set up and the watch companies on board to purchase movements for their new watch designs, Valjoux began assembling and shipping 7750s in 1973.  Interest in the 7750 began to grow and the watch companies made sure to extol the virtues of the Valjoux 7750 in its sales literature and advertisements.  However, the entire Swiss industry was headed for disaster.  Development of quartz movements was well-known, and certain firms in Switzerland itself had been working on electric and quartz movements since 1962. In fact, Ebauches S.A.'s Beta 21 quartz movement first appeared in Swiss watches in 1970. The Swiss watch industry, however, could not foresee the severe impact introduction of primarily Japanese quartz movement sales worldwide would have on the Swiss mechanical watch industry. 

By 1975, Swiss watch companies were really starting to feel the impact on their mechanical watch sales.
Valjoux, Lemania, ETA and other movement manufacturers saw their sales plummet as demand for quartz watches took off. Quartz watches were highly accurate and significantly less expensive than mechanical watches. Sales of Valjoux's movements came to a standstill, including the 7750.  Small watch companies were closing their doors and the larger established watch companies were struggling to survive.  Mechanical chronographs were among the most expensive Swiss watches made in the late 1970s, and demand for the 7750 dwindled.  Valjoux management considered the possibility that the mechanical Swiss watch might be relegated to a curiosity and of interest only to watch collectors. Switzerland's watch industry had survived other crises, and cooler heads realized there would always be a market for the marvelous mechanical movement.  

Valjoux, nevertheless, chose to stop production of the 7750 and directed the tools be scrapped since there would be no use for them.  Edmond Capt was one of those cooler heads, believing scraping the tools would be a mistake and a decision Valjoux would regret later. He and the others in Les Bioux who had invested considerable effort in the 7750 quietly made the decision to simply store the tooling for the 7750 in the event of a decision to resume production at a future day. What a prophetic and wonderful decision this was! In 1978, Capt accepted a position as Technical Director at Frederic Piquet in Le Brassus to work on both quartz and mechanical movements.  Valjoux continued to manufacture manual wind mechanical movements but at greatly reduced production. 

In the early 1980s a curious thing happened.  Demand for mechanical chronographs--both manual wind and automatic-- began to grow again.  Valjoux  management learned tooling for its automatic chronograph had never been scrapped and decided it should resume production of the 7750.  During the 1980s and 1990s production of the 7750 continued to grow and has remained strong ever since.  It became the basis of numerous variations since resumption of production and it can safely be said it is the most popular mechanical chronograph movement today with more than 200,000 units manufactured by ETA each year. However, success of the 7750 did impact demand for manual wind chronograph movements.  Production of the 7733 and 7734, for example, were eventually halted. 

Today, the ebauche stamp on the 7750 is that of ETA, not Valjoux. The company itself was eventually completely absorbed into the ETA S.A. corporate structure.  On ETA's website, Valjoux does appear in the location of its manufactures for Les Bioux.  Admirers of Valjoux movements will always equate the company's calibres with the name Valjoux. 

(C) Anthony Young Valjoux History

A watch legend Valjoux













Valjoux is one of the most venerated names in Swiss watch making history.  For nearly 100 years, Valjoux was a manufacturer of watch ebauches and complete movements. From the 1920s to the 1960s, Valjoux movements were the choice of some of the most prestigious watch manufacturers in Switzerland.. During the Quartz Revolution of the late 1970sand 1980s, the existence of mechanical movement manufacturers and smaller watch companies in Switzerland came under threat from this new, inexpensive and accurate timekeeping technology from Japan. 

In the midst of this watch market upheaval in Switzerland, Valjoux released a new automatic chronograph movement for which it is so well known to this day - the 7750.  The self-winding 7750 was designed for precision timekeeping while being both rugged and economical to manufacture. The Valjoux 7750 was also adaptable and became the basis for numerous variants of this movement; this made it extremely popular with many Swiss watch companies. And, the 7750 ebauche, if you will, serves as the heart of many of the in-house calibres of Switzerland's top-tier watch manufacturers.

Within ETA, Valjoux in Neuchatel continued to manufacture movements and the name Valjoux was always associated with the calibre, i.e. Valjoux 7750.  The 7750 became one of ETA's strongest sellers, year in and year out. In the 1980s the automatic mechanical movement proved most popular and ETA chose to phase out manual wind movements from the Valjoux line. Another change took place within ETA and the Swatch Group which owns ETA.  The name Valjoux disappeared from its literature and did not appear in its webpages.  (The same happened with Unitas and most recently Lemania). The ETA catalog today lists the calibre as the ETA 7750

Chronograph watch enthusiasts, however, have always referred to this calibre as the Valjoux 7750 and probably always will.  Valjoux manufactured many remarkable watch movements during the 20th century, but little information exists on the history of Valjoux and the movements it manufactured.  The Valjoux Reference Site was conceived to fill this information void.  It will grow over the months and years as a resource for all those watch enthusiasts who have admired the magnificent mechanical movements made by Valjoux.

Valjoux History
Valjoux had it's basis in the small town of Les Bioux, near the shore of Lac de Joux, within the canton of Vaud in the northwest part of Switzerland.  In his travels through Switzerland in 1779, Goethe wrote of this region:

"The great mountain range, which, running from Basel to Geneva , divides Switzerland from France , as you are aware, named the Jura.  Its principal heights run by Lausanne and reach as far as Rolle and Nyon.  In the midst of this summit ridge, Nature has cut out—I might almost say washed out—a remarkable valley; for the tops of all these limestone rocks the operation of the primal waters is manifest.  It is called La Vallee de Joux, which means the Valley of the Rock, since Joux, in the local dialect, signifies a rock."

This region of Switzerland was among the richest in terms of watchmaking and the cottage-industry resources watchmakers and watch companies relied on. In August 1897, the local council passed a resolution to promote the establishment of watch and clock making in Les Bioux.  It backed up the resolution with 60,000 Swiss francs for construction of a building, necessary machinery and other needs. In April 1898 the cornerstone was laid, and the building was completed and outfitted before the onset of winter. The business name was the Val de Joux Watch Co.  This company began manufacturing pocket watches and clocks, but the name of the director or owner is unknown today.

n 1901, brothers John and Charles Reymond opened their watchmaking business, Reymond Freres, in Les Bioux, not far from the Val de Joux Watch Co. They had individually honed their watchmaking skills before starting their own business.  Their reputation as fine watchmakers grew, spread by word of mouth, and their business prospered.  However, the Val de Joux Watch Co. suffered from mismanagement, and ownership of the company changed hands several times during the early 1900s. In 1910, legend has it, the last owner made off with all the machine tools, benches and other equipment, leaving the building a shell.

This proved to be window of opportunity for John and Charles Reymond, as the Reymond Freres shops were too small to meet growing demand for their watches. They inspected the empty Val de Joux Watch Co. building and deemed it ideal for their expanding business.  The Les Bioux councilmen met with the Reymond brothers and came to acceptable terms. The Reymond brothers and their employees welcomed the larger watch manufacturing facilities.

The company had manufactured various numbered calibres since its early years and its watch makers assembled wrist watches as well as pocket watches and even a limited number of stop watches. In 1914, they introduced chronograph wrist watches with the Calibre 22 movement (pictured, left). Two years later the Calibre 23 was introduced.  However, the first World War raging in Europe had an impact on the sales of watches, despite Switzerland being isolated from the conflict, which ended in 1918. After the war, the Reymond manufacture continued to prosper and demand for its watches and ebauches continued to grow.  The Reymond ebauches were distinguished by the letter R with a shield outline (pictured above, left).  Sometime during the 1920s, John Reymond's sons, Marius and Arnold, joined the company and applied themselves to the watchmaking craft.

In 1929, Marius and Arnold Reymond assume control of the company, and chose to incorporate it and register the name of the company Valjoux S.A. The crash of the American stock market in 1929 had a disastrous economic impact on the U.S. economy that rippled around the world. This drastically effected demand for all Swiss watches, and thus ebauches, during the 1930s.  Ebauches S.A., created decades earlier, worked to acquire ebauche manufacturing firms to ensure their survival, but Valjoux S.A. choose to remain independent.

The company continued to innovate and introduce new calibres in the 1930s and 1940s.  As early as 1939, Valjoux introduced the Calibre 69 having 10.5 ligne, which was small enough to be worn by women.  Production of more than 60,000 ebauches and movements was achieved in 1942.  Nevertheless, by 1944, Valjoux S.A. was also acquired by Ebauches S.A.  Valjoux movements were selected by Rolex, Audemars Piquet, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and other fine watch companies.  The company became known for its fine chronograph movements, and continued this tradition with the introduction of the '7' series--the Valjoux 70, 71, 72, 72C (for calendar), 75, 76 and 77. The 72C, for example, displayed date, weekday, and Moon phase.  Valjoux S.A. eventually passed from Reymond family control, and was managed by directors selected by Ebauches S.A. 

These Valjoux chronograph calibres were so consistently good, they remained in production for years and served as the basis for production during the 1950s and 1960s.  These movements were supplemented by the introduction of the Calbre 84, a 14 ligne movement with 30 minute register and two pushers, the Calibre 88 of 13 ligne with calendar, Moon phase, hour recorder and 30 minute register, and the Calibre 92 having 13 ligne with two functions and two pushers. All Valjoux's chronographs were manual wind, and several Swiss watch industry giants introduced automatic chronographs in the late 1960s that would motivate Valjoux to join that elite fraternity, and thus make Swiss watch movement history.

(C) Anthony Young Valjoux History pages

Epos Watch Company

The modern Epos Watch Company was formed by Peter Hofer in the early nineteen eighties. Peter Hofer is a forty year veteran of the Swiss watchmaking industry. His passion for mechanical and complicated lead him to start manufacturing in the city of Biel. All Epos movements are assembled and adjusted in the company workshop.

How it all started
The origins of the EPOS Company date back to 1925. In that year, James Aubert formed his watch company in the Vallée de Joux, known as the centre of the mechanical watch world. James Aubert was an enthusiastic mechanical watch engineer, who dedicated his life to developing new watch mechanisms.
James Aubert was a master of his art and spent most of his efforts focusing on technical developments of chrono-graphs and minute repeaters. He had first acquired his skills working as an engineer for the former watch movement manufacturers “Valjoux” and “Landeron“.

In the true watchmakers’ tradition, he handed down his knowledge to his nephew Jean Aubert and his son-in-law, Jean Fillon, who is still today the EPOS’ watch engineer in chief. In his workshop many of EPOS’ own developments for complicated watches were created in close cooperation with EPOS watchmakers. A few that could be named are the jumping hour, the power reserve indication, the big date, the regulator and the regulator with the phases of the moon.

Company Formation
In the early 80s, the success story of the traditional Swiss watch came to a standstill. The new quartz technology radically changed the face of the watch industry. Nobody wanted to produce mechanical watches any longer, with the notable exception of a few luxury brands.
Peter Hofer, a long-established expert in Swiss watchmaking, was one of the few who still believed in the future of the mechanical watch. With this vision, he and his wife Erna decided to form their own company in 1983: Montres EPOS SA. Their main assets were a passion for mechanical watches and a technical know-how in this field. 
 
Personal contacts with key people in watch workshops both in the Jura Mountains and the Vallée de Joux, as well as a vast knowledge of the global watch market, enabled Peter Hofer to quickly develop his own brand. From the very beginning, EPOS has been a mechanical brand with interesting innovations. For 20 years he remained faithful to his vision, developing stunning collections incorporating fascinating mechanisms, always in close cooperation with Jean Fillon.
 
In 2002 Peter Hofer looked for a successor who shared his passion for mechanical watches and was willing to take over and develop the EPOS business. Ursula Forster, who came from a watchmakers’ family, and her husband Tamdi, who also had great experience in the Swiss watchmaking industry, seemed to be the ideal solution.

Official site: Epos

Epos Collection Sportive Model 3341


Ref. 3341
 
Mechanical self-winding movement Valjoux 7751, decorated. Chronograph with duograph-display, phases of the moon, date-pointer, day of week, month and tachymeter. Stainless steel case with sapphire crystal and screwed see through back. Water resistant to 50 m. Black dial. Leather strap.

Case dimension: 
Thickness: 15,5 mm 
Diameter: 42,5 mm

Manufacturer: Epos (Swiss)

MSRP: USD 2,500.--

Formex DS2000 Automatic GMT model 6020



Ref.2001.6020
Automatic ETA Kal. 2893-2 (ETA Swiss Technology)
Automatic Movement, Swiss Made
GMT Diver`s Professionals
Hours, Minutes,24 Hours
Date At 6:00
Tachymeter Speed Indication
Luminous Hands And Markers
Sapphire Crystal With Anti-Reflection Coating
Stainless Steel-Titanium Bezel
Stainless Steel-Titanium Case and back
Diver 2001.6010 GMT
Shock Absorber, Active Suspension (Patented Technology)
Waterresistant 30 ATM (300 m)
Stainless Steel-Titanium Bracelet
Allen/Inbus Screws For Easy Bracelet Changing And Shortening
Heavy Duty Buckle Clasp
Formex 4Speed GMT Diver Series
Formex Case


Dimensions
Diameter: 45mm (with crown 48 mm)
Depth: 16 mm
Lug Width: 28 mm
Two Years International Guarantee Granted By The Manufacturer

Variations:
20001.6020 - Blue dial

Manufacturer: FORMEX WATCH SA
MSRP:  EUR 2,000.--

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Sinn U1000 S


Reference number: 1011.020

Case Material: Submarine steel
Water resistant: 1000 m
Dimensions: 44
Crystal: Sapphire
Display back: No
Lug width: 22
Weight: 135 grams

Base movement: top grade Valjoux 7750 which Sinn has modified to create their SZ-02 calibre. The primary modifications consist of a redesigned minute register which actually counts 60 minutes rather than the typical 30. This register has been enlarged and is placed at 6, with the primary hour register located at 12. Next, Sinn has used its special oil to construct the movement. The Sinn special oil, also known as Sinn 66-228, permits a greater range of operating temperatures from - 45є C to + 80є C - in other words, this watch will hold up in extreme conditions. To counter the affects of moisture and humidity, Sinn has applied their "Dry Hold" technology to this model, consisting of four copper sulphate capsules and the use of inert gasses sealed within the case.

Dial: Black
This watch features a brand new bezel design from Sinn. First, the bezel is attached to the watch with screws rather than friction mounted. These screws prevent the bezel from becoming detached through accidental contact with other objects. Next, the bezel is locked in place and will turn only if downward pressure is applied. This "lock and push" system ensures that time sensitive events (such as dives) will be correctly measured.

Water Resistance
Next, a discussion of water resistance. This watch represents a breakthrough on the testing of chronograph functions at great depths. The watch is not only rated water resistant to 1,000 meters, the pushers and other chronograph functions have also been tested to that depth. Each Sinn U1000 S watch ships with a certificate from the international testing lab Germanischen Lloyd certifying these tests.
Sinn has developed a special system of double Viton® seals and other engineering processes to achieve this certification. While building a 1,000 meter dive watch is not in itself unique, building a diver's chronograph whose functions have been tested at that depth is an achievement.

  • Full Tegiment construction
  • The black PVD treatment is also Tegimented, adding durability to this process
  • Case constructed of submarine steel for superior resistance to corrosion, scratches and magnetism
  • Double Viton® seals
  • Modified SZ-02 movement with redesigned 60 minute register
  • Sinn special oil for operation in extreme temperatures
  • Four Sinn copper sulphate capsules to absorb moisture and humidity
  • Inert gasses have been inserted into the case to promote a dry and stable environment
  • Bezel is screwed to the case using an exclusive Sinn design
  • Bezel is locked into position and will rotate only when pushed down
  • Built to the standards of the German special forces - EZM 6
  • Double coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal hardened with Tegiment process
  • In house case construction from Sinn's Glashutte case manufacture SUG

MSRP: EUR 3,565.--

Sinn U2 S

Reference number: 1020.020

Case Material:  Submarine Steel Pvd coated
Water resistant: 2000 m
Dimensions: 44
Crystal: Sapphire
Display back: No
Lug width: 22
Weight: 114 grams

Base movement: automatic mechanical movement, operating at 28,800 beats per hour, shockproof according to DIN 8308 specification and anti-magnetic according to DIN 8309 specification. It operates in temperatures between -45° Celsius to +80° Celsius due to the special lubricants in the movement applied in the Sinn laboratory.

Dial: Black

The Sinn U2 Black contains features you won't find in other watches:
  • Full Tegiment construction
  • The black PVD treatment is also Tegimented, adding durability to this process
  • Case constructed of submarine steel for superior resistance to corrosion, scratches and magnetism
  • Double Viton® seals
  • Sinn special oil for operation in extreme temperatures
  • Two Sinn copper sulphate capsules to absorb moisture and humidity
  • Inert gasses have been inserted into the case to promote a dry and stable environment
  • Bezel is screwed to the case using an exclusive Sinn design
  • Built to the standards of the German special forces - EZM 5
  • Second time zone complication indicated by a red tipped hour hand
  • Double coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal hardened with Tegiment process
  • In house case construction from Sinn's Glashutte case manufacture SUG
  • Increased water resistance to 2,000 meters
  • 4.6 mm thick sapphire crystal
Sinn has been hard at work over the last year to develop two watches that feature a Tegimented bezel, case, crown and case back, the first of which is the new Sinn U1000 and the second this watch.

The new Sinn U2 Black is constructed from the same steel that is used on the outer hull of submarines. The steel was procured by Sinn from a steel supplier to Emden GmbH, one of Germany’s North Sea shipbuilding yards who construct submarines. This submarine steel is not only extraordinarily sea water resistant (PRE value up to 38), it also possesses the highest anti-magnetic quality. 

Next, the Sinn U2 Black features a completely Tegimented case, bezel, crown and case back. Standard steel used by most watch companies has a hardness of between 200 and 240 HV (Hardness Vickers is a common scale used to measure material hardness). The Tegiment layer on this watch in combination with the PVD coating has a hardness in excess of 2,000 Vickers which is more than nine times harder than standard steel. 

MSRP: EUR 2,175.--

Sinn U1 SDR

Reference number: 1010.040

Case:
Material: Submarine Steel
Water resistant: 1000 m
Dimensions: 44 mm
Crystal: Sapphire
Display back: No
Lug width: 22

Base movement: ETA 2824-2 automatic

Dial: Black
Additional information: Black PVD bezel

The technology and design elements used to create the new Sinn U1 go far beyond standards used at most watch companies. 
The U1 is designed to be virtually impervious to water penetration. The U1 case is made from the same steel that is also used in the construction of the outer hull of submarines. The steel was procured by Sinn from a steel supplier to Emden GmbH, one of Germany’s North Sea shipbuilding yards who construct submarines from the very same steel. This submarine steel is not only extraordinarily sea water resistant (PRE value up to 38), it possesses also the highest anti-magnetic quality. 
Because of the special steel used from the submarine steel manufacturer, the case resists the effects of exposure to salt water and salt water environments. Tegimented bezel.
The uni-directional ratchet operated rotating bezel is also milled from this submarine steel. The indices are machined directly into the bezel without the use of bezel inserts, which can corrode or come loose at deep depths. The international testing lab of Germanischen Lloyd has tested the U1, and determined that the watch can be certified as water resistant to 1,000 meters. This same firm tests submarines for their ability to withstand the effects of underwater use.
The watch has an automatic mechanical movement, operating at 28,800 beats per hour, shockproof according to DIN 8308 specification and anti-magnetic according to DIN 8309 specification. 
Matte black dial with date at 3, Super Luminova on hands and markers, and striking red seconds hand complete the design. Other features include sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, and rubber strap with double push deployant buckle and fliplock safety clasp.

MSRP:  EUR 1,200.--

Revue Thommen Airspeed Line XX Large model 9587


Reference: 16576.9587
Case Material: Black Steel/Rose Gold
Back Material: Stainless Steel
Size:  44.0x44.0 mm
Thickness: 11 mm
Resistance: 5 ATM / 50 m / 165 ft
Crystal Material: Double-Coated Anti-Reflective Sapphire
Face Colour: Black
Numerals: Arabic Numerals
Bracelet Material: Leather
Movement Name: ETA 251.262
Jewels: 27

Manufacturer: Revue Thommen

MSRP: EUR 900.--

Revue Thommen Nostalgia 1853 SS model 2132


Ref: 17071.2132
Model: Nostalgia 1853 Classic 
Gender: Men's
Movement: ETA Cal. 2824-2
Swiss Made mechanical self-winding Automatic
25 jewels, 28.800 A/h, Power Reserve 40 hrs
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Sweep Seconds with hack feature - quick-set Date at 3:00
Casing: Polished stainless steel case with scratch-resistant Sapphire Crystal, screw-in Exposition Back to view movement
Dial: Cream-white dial with breguet-style hands, roman Numerals and Minute track
Watchband: Antique-brown Revue Thommen Leather Strap with steel deployant clasp
Water-resistance: To 3 ATM (30 m / 100 ft.)
Dimensions: Diameter 38 mm (without crown) - Thickness 10 mm - Lug width 18 mm

Manufacturer: Revue Thommen

Model variation in SS:

Collectible watch, Special Limited Series production

MSRP: EUR 450.--

Revue Thommen Chronograph 1701 Special Edition Model 6233


Ref. 1701.6233 Special Edition 
White Dial model 
Chronograph Selfwinding Automatic Movement
ETA/Valjoux Cal. 7750, Swiss Made 
28.800 Vibrations/Hour  25 Jewels 
White Dial, Stainless Steel Applications 
Stainless Steel Case 
Sapphire Crystal, Scratchproof 
Sapphire Crystal Back Case 
Waterresistant 3 ATM (30 m / 98 ft.) 
Stainless Steel Hands With Luminous Markers 
Centered Red Second Hand For Chronograph Functions 
All hands related to chronograph functions are red 
Day-Date at 3 o'clock (English) 
Small Second Register At 9 o'clock With Red Scale 
Brown Leather Bracelet 
Buckle Clasp, Stainless Steel 

Dimensions:
Diameter: 38mm (With Crown: 42mm)
Thickness: 13mm

Model variants:

Manufacturer: Revue Thommen
Collectible watch, Special Limited Series production

MSRP:  EUR 2,295.--

Revue Thommen Chronograph 1701 Limited Series Model 6135

Ref. 1701.6135
Engraved BLUE Dial Model
Selfwinding Automatic Movement, ETA/Valjoux Cal. 7750
28.800 Vibrations/Hour 
25 Jewels 
Engraved Brown Dial, Stainless Steel Applications 
Stainless Steel Case 
Sapphire Crystal, Scratchproof 
Sapphire Crystal Back Case 
Waterresistant 3 ATM 
Black Hands, Breguet Style 
Centered Stainless Steel Second Hand For Chronograph Functions 
Day-Date at 3 o'clock (English) 
Small Second Register At 9 o'clock 
Black Leather Bracelet 
Buckle Clasp, Stainless Steel 


Dimensions:
Diameter: 38mm (With Crown: 42mm)
Thickness: 13mm

Revue Thommen Chronograph 1701 Limited Series Model 6136


Ref. 1701.6136
Engraved Brown Dial Model
Selfwinding Automatic Movement, ETA/Valjoux Cal. 7750
28.800 Vibrations/Hour 
25 Jewels 
Engraved Brown Dial, Stainless Steel Applications 
Stainless Steel Case 
Sapphire Crystal, Scratchproof 
Sapphire Crystal Back Case 
Waterresistant 3 ATM 
Black Hands, Breguet Style 
Centered Stainless Steel Second Hand For Chronograph Functions 
Day-Date at 3 o'clock (English) 
Small Second Register At 9 o'clock 
Black Leather Bracelet 
Buckle Clasp, Stainless Steel 


Dimensions:
Diameter: 38mm (With Crown: 42mm)
Thickness: 13mm

Revue Thommen Chronograph 1701 Limited Series Model 6137

Ref. 1701.6137
Chronograph 
Selfwinding Automatic Movement, ETA/Valjoux Cal. 7750, Swiss Made 
28.800 Vibrations/Hour 
25 Jewels 
Engraved BLACK Color Dial, Stainless Steel Applications 
Stainless Steel Case 
Sapphire Crystal, Scratchproof 
Sapphire Crystal Back Case 
Waterresistant 3 ATM 
Black Hands, Breguet Style 
Centered Stainless Steel Second Hand For Chronograph Functions 
Day-Date at 3 o'clock (English) 
Small Second Register At 9 o'clock 
Black Leather Bracelet 
Buckle Clasp, Stainless Steel 

Dimensions:
Diameter: 38mm (With Crown: 42mm)
Thickness: 13mm

Model variants:
17071.6135 Revue Thommen Chronograph 1701 Day-Date/Blue 
17071.6136 Revue Thommen Chronograph 1701 Day-Date/Brown 
17071.6137 Revue Thommen Chronograph 1701 Day-Date/Black 

Manufacturer: Revue Thommen
Special Series, produced in limited number

MSRP: EUR 2,295.--

Revue Thommen Chronograph 1701 Limited Series Model 6133

Ref. 17071.6133
Revue Thommen Chronograph Valjoux 7750 Classic White, reference no. 17071.6133, exclusive special series in small quantity
38 mm case diameter, with crone 42 mm
thickness 13 mm
weight 80 g.

Movement: 
ETA Swiss Made Automatic Chronograph Valjoux 7750
25 stones (rubins), 28.800 A/h, power reserve 44 hours

Stop function with central second, small minute and hour, permanent small second, Day-Date in English
Luxury guilloche black dial, arabic numbers and indices, hands in breguet style, tachymeter scale
Polished case of stainless steel, two pushers, onion crown, sapphire crystal glass and back, 3 ATM water resistant
Fine black calf leather, upholstered with logo, buckle of stainless steel with logo, 18 mm wide at case, length 265 mm

Revue Thommen Superoversize Beobachter

Model: Superoversize Beobachter Automatic 17010.2537
Re-issue of a model that has been produced for Airforce Pilots in the 1940's.

Movement: ETA Cal. 2824-2
Swiss Made, mechanical self-winding Automatic
25 jewels, 28.800 A/h, Power Reserve 40 hrs
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Sweep Seconds with hack feature
Casing: Polished stainless steel case with scratch-resistant Sapphire Crystal and screw-in steel back of casing
Dial: Mat black dial with luminous Arabic Numerals and lozenge-style hands with luminous markers
Watchband: Padded black Revue Thommen Leather Strap with steel deployant clasp
Water-resistance: To 10 ATM (100 m / 330 ft.)
Dimensions: Diameter 55 mm (with crown 60 mm) - Lug width 26 mm

Manufacturer: Revue Thommen
Special Series, produced in limited number

MSRP: EUR 699.--

Monday, December 29, 2008

Sinn 6100 Jubilee Regulateur Rose Gold Limited Edition


The 6100 Jubilee rose gold model reflects our self-conception and the Sinn corporate philosophy down to the last detail. It is without doubt the top of the range of classical masterpieces. As a valuable collector’s piece, it is strictly limited to just 45 watches. The elegant watch case is made of 18 ct rose gold. This creates a striking contrast to the jet black, guilloche-embellished dial. The front crystal and see-through back are both anti-reflective, for optimum legibility and a clear view of the working mechanism. The crown is sealed with the Sinn D3 crown system (direkt-doppel-dichtend in German, which translates as ‘direct double seal’). The Model 6100 Jubilee is water-resistant to DIN 8310, withstands pressure up to 10 bar (corresponding to a depth of 100 m) and is unaffected by low pressure.

MOVEMENT
· Sinn SZ04 based on Unitas 6498-1 with modified indication
· Manual wind
· 17 jewels
· 18,000 semi-oscillations/hour
· Decorated movement parts (with Geneva stripes, embellished bridges, blued screws)
· Triovis fine adjustment system
· Anti-magnetic to DIN 8309
· Shock-proof to DIN 8308
DIALS AND HANDS
· Small hour dial at 12 o’clock
· Centrally placed minute hand
· Small second hand at 6 o’clock
WATCHCASE
· Rose gold 18 ct 4N, polished front and back, sides of bezel satinised
· Flat sapphire crystal on front, anti-reflective both sides
· Back secured with 8 screws, flat sapphire crystal display back, anti-reflective inside
· D3 crown system, with double “O” ring gasket, no screws
· Water-resistant to DIN 8310
· Withstands pressure up to 10 bar (= 100 m underwater depth)
· Unaffected by low pressure
· Lug width: 22 mm

Produced by: Sinn
It have been produced 45 pcs of that model only, very rare and collectible watches

MSRP USD 9,600.--

Oris Artelier Chronograph

Reference: 01 676 7603 4054-07 5 22 71FC 
Case: Multi-piece stainless steel case
Dial: Black and grey guilloche dial
Strap/Bracelet: Black leather strap, stainless steel folding clasp

Size: 43.50 mm, 1.713 inches
Top Glass: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
Case Back: Stainless steel, fixed with screws, see-through mineral glass
Operating Devices: Stainless steel crown
Luminous Material: Indices and hands Superluminova C3
Water Resistance: 3 bar (30 m, 98 ft)
Interhorn Width: 22 mm

Movement: Automatic winding chronograph. 
Number: Oris 676, base ETA 7753
Dimensions: Ø 30.00 mm, 13 1/4’’’
Functions: Centre hands for hours, minutes and chronograph 1/4 sec., 3 subsidiary dials for continuous seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours counter, date window between 4 h and 5 h, date correction by push-button at 10 h, fine timing device and stop-second
Winding: Automatic winding, with red rotor
Power-Reserve: 42 hrs
Vibrations: 28’800 A/h, 4 Hz
Jewels: 27

Only Oris can successfully combine a sporty, modern chronograph movement with such a classically elegant Artelier case. Practical but still beautiful, perfect at the office or in the gym. It’s everything the modern man could want. A lesson in success.

MSRP: USD 1,450.--

Oris Flight Timer Day Date



Reference: 01 635 7568 4064-07 5 21 55 
Case: Multi-piece stainless steel case
Dial: Black guilloche dial
Strap/Bracelet: Black leather strap, stainless steel buckle

Size: 42.00 mm, 1.654 inches
Top Glass: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
Case Back: Stainless steel, fixed with screws, see-through mineral glass
Operating Devices: Stainless steel crown and vertical crown
Luminous Material: Indices and hands Superluminova C3
Water Resistance: 5 bar (50 m, 164 ft)
Interhorn Width: 21 mm

Movement: Automatic winding day date. 
Number: Oris 635, base ETA 2836-2
Dimensions: Ø 25.60 mm, 11 1/2’’’
Functions: Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, individual date and day windows, instantaneous date and day, date and day corrector, fine timing device and stop-second
Winding: Automatic winding, bi-directionally rotating red rotor
Power-Reserve: 38 hrs
Vibrations: 28’800 A/h, 4 Hz
Jewels: 25

With its massive second crown vertically positioned at two o’clock, this watch is on another level. The second crown enables a second time zone to be set on an inner ring. The concept is borrowed from cockpit watches in planes, so this is a modern innovation with historical significance.

MSRP: USD 1,200.--

Oris Big Crown Complication Two Tone


Reference: 01 581 7566 4361-07 5 19 52 
Case: Multi-piece stainless steel case, rose gold plated top ring
Dial: Silver guilloche dial
Strap/Bracelet: Dark brown leather strap, stainless steel buckle

Size: 38.00 mm, 1.496 inches
Top Glass: Plexi, domed
Case Back: Stainless steel, screwed, see-through mineral glass
Operating Devices: Stainless steel crown
Luminous Material: Indices and hands Superluminova C3
Water Resistance: 5 bar (50 m, 164 ft)
Interhorn Width: 19 mm

Movement: Automatic winding complication. Developed by Oris. 
Number: Oris 581, base ETA 2688/2671
Dimensions: Ø 23.60 mm, 10 1/2’’’
Functions: Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, subsidiary dial for the date, the day of the week and the 2nd time zone (24 h), pushers for setting, moonphase window, fine timing device and stop-second
Winding: Automatic winding, bi-directionally rotating red rotor
Power-Reserve: 38 hrs
Vibrations: 28’800 A/h, 4 Hz
Jewels: 17

A pilot’s watch at the highest level: the High-Mech movement of the Oris Big Crown Complication enables the display of moon phase, second time zone, date, and week day. These special features are presented in a classic way, alongside the exquisitely structured dial, applied fluted bezel, and big crown. All making the watch enthusiast’s heart beat faster.

Sunday, December 28, 2008

Retrowerk Mod. R010



Model: r010
Case Diameter: 46 mm (excluding crown)
Thickness: 16 mm
Case Back: Screwed
Glass: Hardened Mineral Crystal
Strap: Water-repellent Genuine Leather
Calibre: GP00 – Quarz
Water Resistant: 200m
Case: Stainless Steel 316L – Worn Steel Finishing
Special-Features: Luminous Dial (Night glowing)

MSRP: EUR 399.--

Retrowerk Mod. R002

 

Model: r002
Case Diameter: 46 mm (excluding crown)
Thickness: 24 mm (17mm without compass)
Case Back: Screwed
Glass: Hardened Mineral Crystal
Strap: Water-repellent Genuine Leather
Calibre: SWISS MADE - ETA 2824 – Automatic
Water Resistant: 200m
Special Features: Detachable Compass Module (possible to unscrew), Screw Crown Cover with Pre-tensioned Lever, Time Display by Hour Disc (12hrs) instead of hand
Case: Stainless Steel 316L – Worn Steel Finishing

MSRP: EUR 999.--

Retrowerk Mod. R006


 
Model: r006
Case Diameter: 44 mm (excluding crown)
Thickness: 18 mm
Case Back: Screwed
Strap: Water-repellent Genuine Leather
Water Resistant: 200m
Special-Features: Screw Crown Cover with Pre-tensioned Telescopic Lever system Lever, Luminous Dial (Night glowing)
Case: Stainless Steel 316L – Worn Steel Finishing
Glass: Saphire Crystal

Calibre: SWISS MADE - ETA 2824 – Automatic

MSRP: EUR 999.--

Oris Flight Timer R4118 Limited Edition

 
Reference: 01 674 7583 4084-Set 
Case: Multi-piece stainless steel case
Dial: Black guilloche dial
Strap/Bracelet: Dark brown leather strap, push button

Movement: Automatic winding chronograph. 
Size: 44.00 mm, 1.732 inches
Top Glass: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
Case Back: Stainless steel, fixed with screws, see-through mineral glass, special engravings
Operating Devices: Stainless steel crown, vertical crown and pushers
Luminous Material: Indices and hands Superluminova C3
Water Resistance: 5 bar (50 m, 164 ft)
Interhorn Width: 22 mm
Extras: Special box with a model of a Hurricane, book about R4118, limited to 4118

Number: Oris 674, base ETA/Valjoux 7750
Dimensions: Ø 30.00 mm, 13 1/4’’’
Functions: Centre hands for hours, minutes and chronograph 1/4 seconds, 3 subsidiary dials for continuous seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours counter, date window, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second
Winding: Automatic winding, with red rotor
Power-Reserve: 42 hrs
Vibrations: 28’800 A/h, 4 Hz
Jewels: 25

This watch unites past and present. 4118 units as a tribute to the legendary Hurricane R4118. Like a cockpit watch of old, it has a big vertical crown to set a second time zone, as well as crown and push buttons on the left-hand side. But like a watch of the future, it has a state-of-the-art chronograph movement.

Manufacturer: Oris
Production limited to 4118 watches only!

MSRP:  USD 3,600.--

Oris Artelier Small Second, Date

 
Reference: 01 623 7582 4051-07 5 21 48 
Case: Multi-piece stainless steel case
Dial: Silver and grey guilloche dial
Strap/Bracelet: Dark brown leather strap, stainless steel buckle

Size: 40.00 mm, 1.575 inches
Top Glass: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
Case Back: Stainless steel, fixed with screws, see-through mineral glass
Operating Devices: Stainless steel crown
Luminous Material: Indices and hands Superluminova C3
Water Resistance: 3 bar (30 m, 98 ft)
Interhorn Width: 21 mm

Movement: Automatic winding small second, date. 
Number: Oris 623, base ETA 2895-2
Dimensions: Ø 25.60 mm, 11 1/2’’’
Functions: Centre hands for hours and minutes, subsidiary second at 6 h, date window, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second
Winding: Automatic winding, bi-directionally rotating red rotor
Power-Reserve: 44 hrs
Vibrations: 28’800 A/h, 4 Hz
Jewels: 27

Manufacturer: Oris
MSRP:  USD 1890.--


Oris Artelier Auto Date

   
Reference: 01 733 7591 6351-07 5 21 70FC 
Case: Multi-piece stainless steel case, 18K rose gold top ring
Dial: Silver and grey guilloche dial
Strap/Bracelet: Dark brown leather strap, stainless steel folding clasp
Size: 40.00 mm, 1.575 inches
Interhorn Width: 21 mm

Movement: Automatic winding date. 
For full specs see Movement.
Top Glass: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
Case Back: Stainless steel, fixed with screws, see-through mineral glass
Operating Devices: Stainless steel crown
Luminous Material: Indices and hands Superluminova C3
Water Resistance: 3 bar (30 m, 98 ft)

Number: Oris 733, base SW 200
Dimensions: Ø 25.60 mm, 11 1/2’’’
Functions: Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window, instantaneous date, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second
Winding: Automatic winding, bi-directionally rotating red rotor
Power-Reserve: 38 hrs
Vibrations: 28’800 A/h, 4 Hz
Jewels: 26

Manufacturer: Oris
MSRP:  USD 1290.--

Traser P6508 CODE BLUE


The new traser H3 watch P 6508 Code blue is based on the original military watch P6500 Type 6.

Traser H3 P6508 Code Blue

Details:
Waterresistance: to 3 atm/30 meters
Case: polyamid
Bezel: clockwork: Ronda Quartz 
Bottom: stainless steel, screwed
Dial: black
Crystal: mineral
Crone: polyamid, double O-ring
Size: 43mm / high 12mm
Strap: Nato

Colors of the Tritiumlights:
- green on the bezel
- orange / above the number 12
- blue / above the the numbers 1-11
- blue on the min.- / hour pointer

Manufacturer: Traser H3 Watches
MSRP:  USD 250.--

Formex DS2000 Automatic GMT



Ref.2001.6010
Automatic ETA Kal. 2893-2 (ETA Swiss Technology)
Automatic Movement, Swiss Made
GMT Diver`s Professionals
Hours, Minutes,24 Hours
Date At 6:00
Tachymeter Speed Indication
Luminous Hands And Markers
Sapphire Crystal With Anti-Reflection Coating
Stainless Steel-Titanium Bezel
Stainless Steel-Titanium Case and back
Diver 2001.6010 GMT
Shock Absorber, Active Suspension (Patented Technology)
Waterresistant 30 ATM (300 m)
Stainless Steel-Titanium Bracelet
Allen/Inbus Screws For Easy Bracelet Changing And Shortening
Heavy Duty Buckle Clasp
Formex 4Speed GMT Diver Series
Formex Case


Dimensions
Diameter: 45mm (with crown 48 mm)
Depth: 16 mm
Lug Width: 28 mm
Two Years International Guarantee Granted By The Manufacturer

Variations:
20001.6020 - Blue dial

Manufacturer: FORMEX WATCH SA
MSRP:  EUR 2,000.--

Revue Thommen Chronograph 1701 Special Edition Model 6234


Ref. 1701.6234



















Ref. 1701.6234 Special Edition 
Cream Colored Dial model 
Chronograph Selfwinding Automatic Movement
ETA/Valjoux Cal. 7750, Swiss Made 
28.800 Vibrations/Hour  25 Jewels 
Cream Colored Dial, Stainless Steel Applications 
Stainless Steel Case 
Sapphire Crystal, Scratchproof 
Sapphire Crystal Back Case 
Waterresistant 3 ATM (30 m / 98 ft.) 
Stainless Steel Hands With Luminous Markers 
Centered Red Second Hand For Chronograph Functions 
All hands related to chronograph functions are red 
Day-Date at 3 o'clock (English) 
Small Second Register At 9 o'clock With Red Scale 
Brown Leather Bracelet 
Buckle Clasp, Stainless Steel 

Dimensions:
Diameter: 38mm (With Crown: 42mm)
Thickness: 13mm

Model variants:

Manufacturer: Revue Thommen
Collectible watch, Special Limited Series production

MSRP:  EUR 2,295.--

Revue Thommen Nostalgia 1853 GP


Elegante Gold-Plated Swiss Made Automatic Dress Watch


Ref: 17071.2112
Model: Nostalgia 1853 GP 
Gender: Men's
Movement:
Swiss Made mechanical self-winding Automatic, ETA Cal. 2824-2
25 jewels, 28.800 A/h
Power Reserve 40 hrs
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Sweep Seconds with hack feature - quick-set Date at 3:00
Casing: Polished gold-plated stainless steel case with scratch-resistant Sapphire Crystal, screw-in Exposition Back to view movement
Dial: Cream-white dial with breguet-style hands, roman Numerals and Minute track
Watchband: Antique-brown Revue Thommen Leather Strap with gold-plated deployant clasp
Water-resistance: To 3 ATM (30 m / 100 ft.)
Dimensions: Diameter 38 mm (without crown) - Thickness 10 mm - Lug width 18 mm

Manufacturer: Revue Thommen

Model variation in SS:
Collectible watch, Special Limited Series production

MSRP: EUR 450.--