Monday, January 26, 2009

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Chronograph GMT Navy SEALs


This is an authentically technical, demanding and rare diving instrument. Rare because very few watches combine chronograph functions and a dual time-zone display with day/night indication – especially within the context of a diver’s watch that strictly complies with the stringent NIHS (norms relating to its anti-magnetic, photoluminescent, water- and shock-resistance properties). Indeed, these standards are even surpassed by the Master Compressor Diving Chronograph GMT Navy SEALs, which is watertight to a depth of 100 metres, whereas the NIHS calls for “just” 100 metres. 

This 1000-metre performance is achieved by the limited series of 1500 in grade 5 titanium of the Master Compressor Diving Chronograph GMT Navy SEALs, while the 18-carat pink gold version in a limited edition amounts to 300 metres – an impressive record for this precious metal. 

A new mechanical automatic movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 757, powers this demanding 46.3 mm-diameter instrument complete with a steel-frame ceramic diving bezel, compression key crown and pushpieces equipped with compression wing-nuts and mastermoulded in black rubber; as well as a cambered sapphire crystal (hardness no. 9) and screw-down case-back engraved with the Navy SEALs emblem. 

The functions are arranged in a powerful, ultra-legible manner on its black dial stamped with luminescent numerals and hour-markers. Two trapeze-shaped skeletonized and luminescent hands point to the hours and minutes. The chrono-graph functions are indicated by two central hour and seconds hands along with a 30-minute counter, while the dial also shows the date, a movement operating indicator on a luminescent black and white disc, as well as a 12-hour dual timezone display with complementary day/night indication. 


Movement: 
mechanical automatic JLC Calibre 757, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand 
28,800 vibrations per hour 
65-hour power reserve 
285 parts 
41 jewels 
5.65 mm thick 

Functions: 
hours, minutes, date 
chronograph, 30-minute counter, central seconds hand 
movement operating indicator 
second time zone with day/night indication 

Dial: 
black, with stamped, luminescent hour-markers and numerals 
date: white, transferred against a black background 
movement operating indicator: black and white luminescent disc 

Hands: 
hours and minutes: trapeze-shaped, openworked, luminescent 
others: steel or brass, rhodium-plated or white 

Crown: 
1 black rubber-moulded crown at 3 o’clock equipped with a compression key, for starting the watch, adjusting the hours, minutes and date, as well as adjusting the second time zone 
2 black rubber-moulded pushpieces at 2 and 4 o’clock equipped with compress wing-nuts, for the chronograph functions 

Case: 
Ø 46.3 mm in grade 5 titanium, or in 18-carat pink gold, with ceramic diving bezel (steel frame) 
Navy SEALs engraving on the case-back 
cambered sapphire crystal, hardness n° 9 
screw-down case-back 
water-resistant to 100 atm for the grade 5 titanium version and to 30 atm for the 18-carat pink gold version. 

Wristbands : 
Vintage leather, overmoulded rubber or articulated rubber. The watch also comes with an alternative wristband, a diving strap in black Cordura® with a rip-and-grip strip. 

References: 
Pink gold, limited series of 500 
on leather strap: Q1782470 
on articulated rubber wristband: Q178277 
on rubber-moulded wristband: Q1782670 

Grade 5 titanium, limited series of 1500 
on leather strap: Q178T470 
on articulated rubber wristband: Q178T677 
on rubber-moulded wristband: Q178T670 
on titanium bracelet: Q178T170 


Saturday, January 24, 2009

Armand Nicolet S05 collection

The S05 collection is based on detailed research carried out in the analysis of the most advanced technologic materials and avant-garde techniques required to produce a perfect model, thanks to the infinite care dedicated to the engineering specifications and to the assembly of special details that integrate rubber and steel. S05 is a collection conceived for refined and dynamic people that has the purpose to overpass the strongest challenges, with the ability to match every difficult situation of weather or light.

Model: 9160M-BC-G9164NR4
Mechanical automatic movement with Day & Date functions.
Calibre AN 2834-2 TND/TNK
Champagne or black dial with applied luminous dots, numbers, and hands. Antiglare treated sapphire crystal and screwed back with raised pattern. Unidirectional turning bezel and screw crown protected with rubber.
Comes available in black calf or rubber strap.
Case and Buckle: Stainless steel 316L
Water Resistance: 20 ATM
Diameter: 44mm
Thickness: 14m
Dial: Black
Strap: Rubber
Buckle: tang

9160M-BC-G9164NR4 

Mechanical automatic movement with Day & Date functions.
Calibre AN 2834-2 TND/TNK
Champagne or black dial with applied luminous dots, numbers, and hands. Antiglare treated sapphire crystal and screwed back with raised pattern. Unidirectional turning bezel and screw crown protected with rubber.
Comes available in black calf or rubber strap.
Case and Buckle: Stainless steel 316L
Water Resistance: 20 ATM
Diameter: 44mm
Thickness: 14m
Dial: Champagne
Strap: Rubber
Buckle: tang

Armand Nicolet M02 collection

The M02 collection is Armand Nicolet milestone in its cutting-edge research into watch making technology and expert craftsmanship, an example of the perfect balance it has achieved between formal innovation and historical tradition.  Despite the classic formality of their lines, M02 watches acquires a personality of their own. This means that it can meet the demands of important wrists and provide the perfect fit desired by customers who are increasingly attentive to every detail. The technology and the choice of materials have been conceived for relaxed and informal daily use, that makes the Armand Nicolet watch an important item always appropriate.

Model: 9144A-AG-P914MR2

Model: 7144A-AG-P914MR2


Model: 7142B-NR-P914NR2

Model: 7141A-NR-P914NR2

Model: 7141A-AG-P914MR2


Model: 9140A-AG-P140MRC2

Model: 7148A-NR-P914NR2

Model: 7148A-AG-P914MR2

Model: 7146A-NR-P914NR2

Model: 7146A-AG-P914MR2


Model: 9140A-NR-P9140NR2

Armand Nicolet L07 Venus collection LE

The new Armand Nicolet Limited Edition has taken up a new challenge and joined the exclusive world of chronographs. Following the original series equipped with small seconds functions, Armand Nicolet L07 has been created in a new chronograph version. 

The new Armand Nicolet L07 watch is united in a limited edition of 140 pieces. The timepiece reveals an amazing range of color combinations of its dials and straps. Twenty pieces have incorporated the prominent movement VENUS 175 with column wheel, while the rest of 120 pieces are equipped with the VENUS 188 with 'navettes' system.

This collection has overcome the brand's tradition of developing only very finely decorated movements, the beauty of which is revealed through transparent case backs in sapphire crystal and dial openings.

The plate and the bridges of the movements are worth special attention - they are fully decorated with a new motif called 'Cote de Nicolet' by Armand Nicolet. First, the surface of the plate and bridges acquires perfect polishing. During the next stage, the plate and bridges are manually decorated with help of a special tool with an ivory point. The tool is used for scraping the surface, thus creating nice lines every 2 mm. 

The pattern has been inspired by the decoration applied in the 1930s only on high-end movements developed during that period. All the work performed on the movement recuperates the signature hand-craftsmanship of Armand Nicolet. The heads of the screws are so flat that if to look at them from a front view, they seem to be black, due to the ideal light reflection. 

The balance wheel has incorporated the counter-weight system. The movement, with a 18000-vibrations per hour beat, offers 32-hour power reserve. The same as the Limited Editions introduced earlier, the movement is provided with the engraving of the limited number on the frame opening on the dial. 

The Armand Nicolet L07 watch goes in a special wood case, accompanied by the Certificate of Authenticity. With the value destined to increase over the years, the timepiece has been created for collectors who highly appreciate not only the excellence of the watch's mechanical execution, but also the smart investment ahead in time.

Model: 7647A-GL-P964GRT2

Available in 10 pieces.
Mechanical manual winding movement with Chronograph functions.
Guillochè decorated dial with applied indexes and diamond cut dots.
Case with antiglare treated sapphire crystal and see-through screwed back.
Case and Buckle: 18 Kt white gold 
Water resistance:5 ATM
Diameter: 43mm
Thickness: 13mm
Dial: Nickel
Strap: Grey Big Scales Alligator
Buckle: tang

Model: 9649A-NR-P964NRT2
Available in 35 pieces
Mechanical manual winding movement with Chronograph functions.
Calibre Venus 188
Guillochè decorated dial with applied indexes and diamond cut dots.
Case with antiglare treated sapphire crystal and see-through screwed back.
Case and Buckle: Stainless steel 316L & 18 Kt rose gold bezel
Water resistance:5 ATM
Diameter: 43mm
Thickness: 13mm
Dial: Black
Strap: Black Big Scales Alligator
Buckle: tang

Model: 7649A-NR-P964NRT2
Available in 10 pieces.
Mechanical manual winding movement with Chronograph functions.
Calibre Venus 188
Guillochè decorated dial with applied indexes and diamond cut dots.
Case with antiglare treated sapphire crystal and see-through screwed back.
Case and Buckle: 18 Kt rose gold 
Water resistance:5 ATM
Diameter: 43mm
Thickness: 13mm
Dial: Black
Strap: Black Big Scales Alligator
Buckle: tang


Model: 7649A-AG-P964MRT2

Available in 10 pieces.
Mechanical manual winding movement with Chronograph functions.
Calibre Venus 188
Guillochè decorated dial with applied indexes and diamond cut dots.
Case with antiglare treated sapphire crystal and see-through screwed back.
Case and Buckle: 18 Kt rose gold 
Water resistance:5 ATM
Diameter: 43mm
Thickness: 13mm
Dial: Silvered
Strap: Brown Big Scales Alligator
Buckle: tang

Armand Nicolet TM7 Tonneau collection

TM7 Big Date Chronograph collection 

Model: 9638A-NR-P968NRT3

Model: 9638A-AS-P968MRT3


Automatic Movement with Big Date and Chronograph functions.
Calibre AN 4500/2824
Guillochè decorated dial with applied indexes and diamond cut dots.
Case with antiglare treated curved sapphire crystal on top and see through back fixed by 8 screws. 

Case and Buckle: Stainless steel 316L
Water resistance:5 ATM
Diameter: height 52mm, width 38mm
Thickness: 13mm
Dial: Silvered with indexes in 5N
Strap: Brown Alligator
Buckle: deploy

Armand Nicolet TM7 Tonneau collection

TM7 Chronograph collection 

Model: 9634A-NR-P968NRT3

Model: 9634A-AS-P968MRT3


Automatic Movement with Chronograph functions.
Calibre AN 2020/2824
Guillochè decorated dial with applied indexes and diamond cut dots.
Case with antiglare treated curved sapphire crystal on top and see through back fixed by 8 screws. 

Case and Buckle: Stainless steel 316L
Water resistance:5 ATM
Diameter: height 52mm, width 38mm
Thickness: 13mm
Dial: Silvered with indexes in 5N
Strap: Brown Alligator
Buckle: deploy

Armand Nicolet TM7 Tonneau collection

TM7 Complete calendar collection 

Model: 9632A-AS-P968MRT3

Model: 9632A-NR-P968NRT3

Mechanical Automatic Movement with Complete Calendar functions.
Calibre AN 9311/2824
Guillochè decorated dial with applied indexes and diamond cut dots.
Case with antiglare treated curved sapphire crystal on top and see through back fixed by 8 screws. 

Case and Buckle: Stainless steel 316L
Water resistance:5 ATM
Diameter: height 52mm, width 38mm
Thickness: 13mm
Dial: Black
Strap: Black Alligator
Buckle: deploy

Armand Nicolet TM7 Tonneau collection

TM7 Collection Day & Date issue

Model: 9630A-AS-P968MRT3

Model: 9630A-NR-P968NRT3

Mechanical Automatic Movement with Day / Date functions.
Calibre AN 2834
Guillochè decorated dial with applied indexes and diamond cut dots.
Case with antiglare treated curved sapphire crystal on top and see through back fixed by 8 screws. 

Case and Buckle: Stainless steel 316L
Water resistance:5 ATM
Diameter: height 52mm, width 38mm
Thickness: 13mm
Dial: Black
Strap: Black Alligator
Buckle: deploy


The prominent VENUS 175 movement


The Heritage houses a vintage and legendary Venus caliber 175 hand wind movement designed by Andre Frey and produced at the former Fabrique d'Ebauches Vénus S.A. in Moutier Switzerland between 1940 and 1964.

The beat rate is 18000 BpH which gives a 1/5th of a second resolution on the chronograph function
17 jewels, rosé gold plated movement
31mm (14 ligne) in diameter and 5.5 mm thick
Features a column-wheel
This movement is common in chronographs of the 40's and 50's
The Breitling Chronomat and Rodania single-button chronograph are examples of vintage watches that use the Venus 175 movement.
There are only several watches on the market today with Venus 175 movements. Most known are the Jacques Etoile Venus models and Armand Nicolets LM07 collections

Friday, January 23, 2009

Edox Grand Ocean Decentrique Date Automatic



Here is another new Edox watch for 2009, the Grand Ocean Decentrique Date Automatic. If you aren't sure about the "decentrique" part of the name, just see how the face itself is "decentered." Yes, putting the suffix "ique" on just about anything gives you the ability to charge a 10-20% premium when selling it. Its a marketing fact (no its not actually).  Sarcasm aside, the watch is pretty nice, and gives me the hopes of owning a styling asymmetrical faced watch that I might actually be able to afford someday (you hear that Audemars Piguet Millenary collection?). Actually, the Audemars Piguet watch is not decentered but rather has two elliptical dials that create the appearance of being asymmetric while the watch face is still centered.
The Grand Ocean Decentrique has beautifully constructed case in 45mm comprised of a mix of rubber, PVD coated and un coated rose gold plated steel. It is certainly the type of watch that makes a statement. There is also the inherent sportiness to the watch. Having the rubber strap, combined with the 100 meters of water resistance surely gives you confidence when throwing it around, right?
The dial has the watch face set low and to the right, with a crescent mood of Roman numerals enveloping the face from the left. The watch dial is encompassed by a brushed rose gold colored ring that has two screws holding it in place, further enhancing the sporty look. I am not in love with the hands (save for the seconds hand with its prominent red tip), but they do the job, and are up for interpretation. That appear to be too classically derived for such a modern and sport watch. Powering the watch is a smaller sizer ETA 2004.1 automatic movement.

This is most stupid and useless date indicator.
Now I don't need pocket calculator to make sure
8-1 = 9 

Price is a pretty reasonable $2,800 (minus your messed up date discount)

Piaget Polo FortyFive Chronograph



The Piaget Polo FortyFive Chronograph is made of titanium, a first for the brand. It reinterprets the original aesthetic in a case that is watertight to 100 metres, extended by a strap made of injection moulded rubber, and expanded to a diameter of 45 mm – a size both in tune with our times and reminiscent of the average length of a polo match. The case has been given a new curve that ensures a good fit to the wrist. The sapphire case-back reveals the 880P movement, designed and developed entirely in-house. In addition to its chronograph and flyback functions, this calibre displays the hour and minutes functions, along with small seconds at 6 o’clock, the date at 12 o’clock and a second 24 hour time zone at 9 o’clock. This 5.6 mm thick self-winding mechanical movement has two barrels and a large screw balance, and offers a 50 hour power reserve when the chronograph mode is engaged.

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon

[via SIHH]
A major player in watchmaking history, Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrated its 175th anniversary in 2008.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has an impressive range of world firsts, superlatives and legendary models to its credit, including the Reverso, the Atmos, the Master Control, the Memovox Polaris, the Gyrotourbillon, the Extreme LAB or the Duomètre movement, and each year presents new creations illustrating the expertise and the spirit of innovation characteristic of the Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux. Over 1000 people mastering over 40 watchmaking professions and over 20 cutting-edge technologies continue to pay tribute to the pioneering spirit of the House founders by creating new masterpieces in harmony with the grand watchmaking tradition.

In 2009, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the
Master Grande Tradition by presenting two unique creations, two new movements celebrating the birth of this new line: The First Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon and the first minute repeater featuring a regulator display.

Ebel Unveils 1911 Tekton AFC Ajax Automatic Chronograph



The case of the Ebel 1911 Tekton AFC Ajax Automatic Chronograph watch measures 48.50mm in diameter and is crafted from brushed stainless steel. The hexagonal bezel of watch is crafted from black rubber and accentuates the intricate nature of the multi-level silver dial. 

The dial features red flange and distinctive chronograph functions. The combination of red and white has been inspired by the design of the Ajax jersey. The case construction incorporates a screw-down crown and rubberized chronograph push-pieces. The timepiece is 200-meter water-resistant.

The sapphire crystal transparent case back allows true watch lovers admire the beauty of themanufacture Ebel 245 caliber that demonstrates a football-shaped winding mass. The exclusive automatic chronograph caliber provides precision timekeeping guaranteed by prestigious COSC chronometer certification. 

The movement incorporates a one-of-a-kind mechanism devised for measuring the 45-minute intervals of match half-times, and extra times. The rotating disc visible at 6 o'clock on the dial is responsible for measuring elapsed hours, in accord with the 45-minute periods. The Ebel 245 caliber also provides a date display, which may be adjusted rapidly when it is necessary. 

The 1911 Tekton AFC Ajax Automatic Chronograph watch will be available in a limited edition of 150 numbered pieces. The first 15 pre-released pieces are available exclusively at Dutch retailer Gassan Diamonds

Saturday, January 17, 2009

UTS Watches: Adventure II

UTS Watches are engineered tools from the unique screwed in lugs, to the torx screwed in case

The UTS Commander was a classic, the was legend, and the new UTS Adventure Automatik is destined to be on your wrist.   Dial Color Black, Cobalt Blue, or White dials, and a limited edition black dial with index markers. 

Utilizing the new Valgranges swiss movement (mod VJ 7750) this German masterpiece is 45MM in diameter with 500M water resistance. Using the best quality surgical stainless steel grade 1.4404 The dial sports super bright Super-Luminova glowing in bright blue. 6 torx screws connect through front-midde-into the back watch case.      

Size: 45MM diameter bezels, 46mm diameter middle case
Height 15MM  140gr weight without strap

Movement: Highest Grade Valgranges Automatic (mod VJ 7750):
48 hour reserve Hours, minutes, seconds / Self winding / Date display in window / Regulator system ETACHRON with finetiming device / 28.800 vibrations per hour; 4 Hz. / 24 Jewels  

Steel 1.4404 surgical stainless german steel Sapphire Crystal: 3mm front 3mm back   

UTS Watches: Professional Diver 2000

UTS Watches presents the Limited Edition 2000M. The biggest diver UTS have ever made. At 44MM diameter and 17MM in height, which is the same as new Chrono model. This watch is not for the faint of heart! A bigger case, bigger dial, and wider hands are just some of the new features. UTS Watches are engineered tools from the unique screwed in lugs, to the screwed in case back there is nothing like a UTS. Massive Solid surgical grade stainless steel case.  Constructed and assembled in-house in Munich Germany. 200 Total watches 4MM Sapphire crystal, Super bright Super-luminova.
Swiss ETA 2824-2 movement adjusted to 5 positions, 175Gr weight with rubber strap and over 200gram with massive 5MM thick UTS link Divers Bracelet or massive Mesh 



  • 44MM Diameter
  • 17.0MM Height
  • 4MM Sapphire Crystal
  • 22MM Lug
  • 5.0MM bracelet thickness
  • ETA 2824-2 Swiss Auto movement
  • 250gram weight with bracelet
  • Impermeable under extreme air and water pressure over 2000M tested
  • comfortable bracelet & clasp


Friday, January 16, 2009

UTS Watches: Professional Diver 1000

The UTS Diver 1000 is the „small brother“ but does not need to stay behind the „big brother“ Diver 3000. 6 screws seal the rigid caseback, a 3mm thick sapphire crystal and bright lume on the dial and hands make the Diver 1000 to a really professional diverwatch.




  • 3 piece watchcase design
  • Screwdown crone d = 7mm, crown stem screwed into watchcase
  • Mechanical movement screwed into watchcase
  • Sapphire crystal 3 mm thick, pressed into watchcase
  • Strapadapters screwed into watchcase, Strap size 22 mm
  • Rotating diver-bezel with 60 positions, ccw
  • Waterproof and pressure resistant to 100 bar = 1000 m depth
  • Multi industrial sealings
  • 6 pcs of screws to seal cover
  • Screw M 1,6 x 4 DIN 912 V2A
  • Case 3 mm thick / Case engraved
  • Individual serial number
MOVEMENT: Automatic ETA 2824-2, chronometer grade. Diameter 25.6mm (11½‴), ht. 4.6mm; 25 jewels; 28,800vph. This movement needs no introduction to watch enthusiasts — it has been characterized as a “workhorse” many times. As with all UTS watches, the movement is adjusted to five positions by Nicolaus Spinner, UTS founder and watchmaker. Incidentally, Herr Spinner (photo below), a mechanical engineer, is not just the watch assembler. He designs the watches and cases, machines the cases himself (no outside supplier is used) before assembling the parts and delivering the watch. Only the dials, hands, and crowns are outsourced. This watch is still in its settling-in period, so I have not yet gauged its running accuracy. But all my other UTS watches keep time within C.O.S.C. chronometer parameters.

UTS Watches: Professional Diver 500


The Baby-Diver. Reduced in its functions, the Diver 500 is a real UTS diving watch.
Manufactured in the classic = solid UTS way, the Diver 500 is pressure resistant until 500m depth.



  • 3 piece watchcase design
  • Screwdown crone d = 7mm, crown stem screwed into watchcase
  • Mechanical movement screwed into watchcase
  • Sapphire crystal 2,5 mm thick, pressed into watchcase
  • Strapadapters screwed into watchcase, Strap size 22 mm
  • Rotating diver-bezel with 60 positions, ccw
  • Waterproof and pressure resistant to 50 bar = 500 m depth
  • Multi industrial sealings
  • 6 pcs of screws to seal cover
  • Screw M 1,6 x 4 DIN 912 V2A
  • Case 2,5 mm thick / Case engraved
  • Individual serial number

MOVEMENT: Automatic ETA 2824-2, chronometer grade. Diameter 25.6mm (11½‴), ht. 4.6mm; 25 jewels; 28,800vph. This movement needs no introduction to watch enthusiasts — it has been characterized as a “workhorse” many times. As with all UTS watches, the movement is adjusted to five positions by Nicolaus Spinner, UTS founder and watchmaker. Incidentally, Herr Spinner (photo below), a mechanical engineer, is not just the watch assembler. He designs the watches and cases, machines the cases himself (no outside supplier is used) before assembling the parts and delivering the watch. Only the dials, hands, and crowns are outsourced. This watch is still in its settling-in period, so I have not yet gauged its running accuracy. But all my other UTS watches keep time within C.O.S.C. chronometer parameters.


Tuesday, January 13, 2009

BALL Watch Company - Conductor Transcendent

The Ball solution to reading time in the dark is the Self Powered Micro Gas Lights (3H). The 3H micro gas lights glow up to 100 times brighter than luminous paints for up to 25 years, they do not require charging from any outside light source or power source. The encapsulated tritium gas poses no risk to the wearer over the life of the watch



Models:
NM1068D-L1J-BK, NM1068D-L1J-WH,
NM1068D-S1J-BK, NM1068D-S1J-WH 

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date 
Case:
Stainless Steel, Diameter: 35.5 mm x 47.5 mm, Height: 13.5 mm
Bezel: Plain
Glass: TV Screen Sapphire, Curved Sapphire Case Back 
Crown: Screwed type
3H Gas Light:
15 Micro Gas Tubes on Hour, Minute, Second Hands and Dial for Night Reading Capability
Movement: Automatic Calibre ETA 2892-2 
Bracelet:
Crocodile Leather Strap with Pin Buckle or Stainless Steel with Folding Clasp
Water Resistant: 50 m / 165 ft.
Shock Resistant: Withstand 5,000Gs Shock Test
Dial: Black and White